This page has information from my forthcoming guidebooks on the 4000m peaks (2022), Pennine Alps (2023) and Mont Blanc region (2023). The comprehensive topo infomation is available to download  in pdf format, see below.

If you want prints of any of these images check out https://www.bentibbettsphotography.com > Image library. If you don’t find what you are after contact me!

Weisshorn Overview

With its three prominent, narrow ridges and pointy summit, the Weisshorn is one of the most attractive peaks in the Alps. Each of it’s ridges are major undertakings, and like the Matterhorn and Schreckhorn, there is no easy or short way to reach the summit. Combining any of the climbs into a traverse makes for a very long and rewarding outing.

The North-North-West ridge has a perfect balance of elegant snow crests and fine rock scrambling. This variety makes it one of the most appealing mixed ridges in Switzerland and a superb objective for experienced alpinists.

Climbing notes – 25th September 2017

At 6am Tom Coney and I reached a sheltered spot just below the summit of the Bishorn. We were already severely chilled and hurried to put on all the clothes we had. Light began to grow on the eastern horizon while we crossed over the summit and headed down towards the Weisshornjoch. The blues and purples of dawn gave way to vibrant orange as the sunlight descended through the atmosphere. The wind was streaming from the west, and my right eye was becoming sticky as my eyelashes iced together and froze to the camera’s viewfinder.

Tom and I roped together and continued over and around innumerable intricate rock pinnacles until we came up against the base of the Grand Gendarme. The steep rocks before us looked intimidating, but they must have been all the more so in 1898 with feeble ropes and slippery hobnailed boots.

Setting off up the same steep blocky corner that forms the crux of the route, I found it plastered in snow that was melting fast in the morning sun. With more force than grace, I hauled my way through the sequence of strenuous overhangs, my feet sliding on the snowy rock. The snow crest beyond proved to be very delicate – the surface on our left was hard and icy, and to the right it had a dangerous crust of slabby snow. Neither was particularly attractive, so Tom and I inched up the ridge with one foot on either side while the wind howled around us, strong as ever. Every so often great threads of cloud spun off the summit and danced behind the ridge, only to disappear just as quickly. The altitude was taking its toll, so we crawled along and paused frequently. Climbing with my head down, concentrating on my precarious footwork, I almost stumbled into a huge crevasse that cut right across the ridge. Its edge overhung and disappeared into the darkness below me. Gingerly, we traversed around it and soon after found ourselves on the rocky summit.

Approach

From Zinal, follow the path to Cabane de Tracuit. Cross the Turtmann glacier, and ascend the NW slope of Pointe Burnaby (4133m). Ascend the short E ridge to the Bishorn summit (4151m, 3hrs from the Cabane). Descend SSW to the Weisshornjoch (4060m).

Route – 7-9hrs from the Cabane de Tracuit

Follow the crest of the NNW ridge easily over snow then mixed terrain to Pt 4202. Rappel 20m (or downclimb, III), then continue a short way to another 15m rappel (or downclimb on E side, III+). Continue on or close to the crest over a narrow tower and down to the base of another tower with a steep slab (often snowy). Climb this directly (III, or traverse under it on the E flank). Regain the airy crest and follow it to the notch before the largest tower – the Grand Gendarme. Cross the notch and then traverse 5m onto the E flank of the Grand Gendarme. Climb up the obvious steep corner then chimney above (c.35m, III+, bolts). Continue along the ridge to gain the summit of the Grand Gendarme. Downclimb SE to reach the snowy saddle then follow the fine snow and mixed arête to the summit.

Descent

The east ridge is most often used as the descent – see chapter above. The NNW ridge can be descended at the same difficulty in c.6hrs by reversing the ascent line. The Grand Gendarme is descended in 2 or 3 rappels (bolted belays), then Pt 4202 is reascended via two pitches of III/III+.